Atari Audio/Regulator Board Notes

Starting with the Asteroids A/R bd which used 1000uf caps for C9 & C10 where all post versions used 3300uf even though many of the schematics & part lists called out for the 1000ufs, the actual bd shipped in the cab had the 3300ufs installed. The kits contain the 3300uf caps which are universal & once installed in the A/R -01 it can be used anywhere you find an A/R or an A/R II-01. But for the physical size the A/R II-01 can be used in place of an A/R bd & that prompted many an op to saw the unused portion of the A/R II-01 bd completely off to accommodate their Asteroids or Football games. Some even cut down the A/R II-02 which can be used in place of any of the A/R or A/R II-xx versions.

The A/R II-02 kit covers all versions of the bds with parts leftover. So many people ordered the wrong kits when we had separate ones for each version of the A/R II-xx bds that we cutback to just the -02 kit for all... and for that matter, it will cover the A/R bds, too, although you have all the unneeded parts for the blank side leftover.

My Cap Map on these is often missed, so I'll put a link here. It lists many of my notes right on it, but I'll add them in here, as well. You can see from the Cap Map which parts are in the kit. To keep the cost to a minimum only the components that typically fail are included. The LM305 on these bds has been time proven, although there have been a few cases of failure, so it is not included nor are the TDA2002 amps which seem to be rock solid in this app. The 5 volt adjustment pot is not included along with the connectors & small passive components... all available on the Parts Page if you see that they are toast on your bd.

I guess the most helpful way to cover the common mistakes is to just make a do list of each component with notes.

1 Capacitors

• This is basically for the newbies... caps are marked as to their positive & negative leads & they must be adhered to with the + (positive) & - (negative) symbols on the bd or as pic'd on the Cap Map.

2 Q1 LM305 Regulator

• This part is not in the kit & it requires a steady hand and a good eye to align all eight legs for installation if need be & there is a tab marker on the case signifying the number 8 leg.
• Do not overheat when soldering. Tack solder around the circle once & then repeat for final solder allowing each joint time to cool.

3 Q2 2N6107/TIP32

• TO220 Insulator must be used.
• Nylon 6-32 Machine Screw must be used.
• Do not overtighten screw.
• Be sure there is no short between the mounting tab & the heat sink.

4 Q3 2N3055

• Insulator must be used.
• Metal machine screw must be used.
• Case must be isolated from the heat sink.
• It is important to tighten the mounting screws snuggly to complete the connection between the case (collector) and the trace below. Only one screw actually completes the circuit and for added stability you can connect a wire with a ring terminal to the second screw & solder the other end to the trace. You can also sand/file/brush the head of the main screw to solder it directly to the trace after it is mounted. The TO3 case is tank solid & not prone to damage from overtightening the mounting screws. As with any TO3 xsistor you always want to mount it before doing any soldering.
• Always finish up this job by checking to make sure there is no short between the case & the heat sink.

5 Q5 TDA2002 Audio Amplifier

• Not part of kit... take care not to overheat when soldering if you replace it.
• No insulator.
• Metal screw.

6 Q7 TDA2002 Audio Amplifier

• Not part of kit... take care not to overheat when soldering if you replace it.
• No insulator.
• Metal screw.

7 Q8 7812 12 Volt Regulator

• No insulator.
• Metal screw.
• Tighten to hold in place, but do not overtighten. Overtightening of TO220 xsistors when a metal screw is used can damage internal device connections. Take care not to slip with tool & jab the plastic body which can have the same damage results.

• TO220 Insulator must be used.
• Nylon 6-32 Machine Screw must be used.
• Do not overtighten screw. Overtightening of nylon screws will strip the threads, so tighten just till the screw snugs up.
• Unloaded output -15 volts. Many Atari games do not use the -5 volts even though their manual and/or schematic may show it & hence an unloaded -15 volts at the test point even when the game bd is in use. Pin 9 of P10 connector is the -5 volt output & many game harnesses don't even have a wire in this position.

Happy Gaming...